Monday, May 25th. 2009

We started yesterday off with another visit to our nearby Albert's. As with any good quest story, we found our spices under our noses at the nearby Albert's. Now with a local supply of spices secured, we need no longer seek them out. Had we found it on our first day, it would have robbed us of our first hunt in the grand city of Prague.

Without such a noble cause, we wandered aimlessly about the city. Walking down a grand boulevard, we reached a bridge and crossed over into Little Quarter across the river. An area of town that has the flavour of Trastevere in Rome with its winding streets, lined with small restaurants and pubs in semi-residential neighborhood. Then we made our way up the hill towards the Castle Quarter. We had no intention to walk into any of the sites at the time, so we walked around St. Vitus Cathedral and the Old Royal Palace, and down the slope where we discovered a tiny vineyard. Crossing over St. Charles bridge, we slowly made our way back home, for a cold refreshing beer, and a delicious supper.

After relaxing with another beer, we walked up Wenceslas, grabbed a gelato and then back to the Old Town Square. The setting sun, and the illuminated square was the perfect place to relax and people watch, and end our day.

Today was our first real day to walk into the sites. We decided to start with the Jewish Quarter. When the pope declared in the 12th century that Christians and Jews should not live together, a marsh area outside the town was walled off, and all the Jews of Prague were forced to live there, along with being made to yellow badges. Prague's ghetto was one of the biggest Jewish ghettos in Europe. Along with being walled off, the only place the Jews of Prague were allowed to bury their dead from 1439 to 1787 was in the Old Jewish Cemetary. Because of the limited space, tombs were crowded next to each other, piled over each other, raising the area into a plateau of crowded gravestones. This was the only place where photographs were permitted.

Prague historically was one third Czeck, one third German, and one third Jewish. After WW II most Germans were expelled, while most of Prague's Jews perished in the concentration camps, leaving Prague 95% Czech today. The Pinkas Synagogue is lined with the names of 77 297 Jews that perished in the concentration camps, and upstairs is collected the artwork of chldren from the Terezin concentration camp. Each piece of art is labelled with the child's name, date of birth, date of internment at the camp, and their date of death. A very moving exhibit which brought tears to Hera's eyes.

The nearby Ceremonial Hall was a good education on the "burial brotherhood" and Jewish burial rituals, while other sites described various Jewish Holidays and religious calendar, family life, and a collection of collected religious artefacts that were collected from the closing of the various synagouges during WW II.

Walking away from the Jewish Quarter, we walked into a local pub for a pint. But the exceptionally slow service, and the stench on tobacco changed our minds. Instead, we walked up a few streets, and following our nose, walked into a delightful bakery, and we each picked up something close to a chocolate filled doughnut. So delicious.

Back home, another cold refreshing pint greeted us, followed by a savoury dish made possible by our precious spices. Hera marinated chicken breasts overnight in paprika, soya sauce, garlic and apple cider vinegar, and served it with basmati rice with paprika and mixed salad. Finally we now have both hot and sweet paprika, but no smoked paprika yet.

With supper over, and well rested, we are getting ready to once again head out to the Old Town Square for some people watching and night photography.

Cheers,

Hera & Anthony